Puppy Owner's
Guide to Sanity
(or...Raising an
Airedale Puppy and Surviving!)
This volume is still undergoing construction - thank you for your patience...
This book is dedicated to all the families who have placed their trust in my
breeding program, and have taken one of my pups into their homes, their lives,
and their hearts.
Welcome to your new extended family.
CONGRATULATIONS - YOU ARE NOW OWNED BY AN AIREDALE TERRIER!
Table of Contents
Introduction
History of the Airedale Terrier
History of the Airedale Terrier at Blackheath Farms
Your Puppy's Beginnings
Puppy-Proofing Your Living Area
Things You Will Need Right Away
Your Puppy's First Night
Guide to Feeding
Allowing your Puppy to Rest
Teething
Ear Gluing
Choose Toys Wisely
Puppy Kindergarten
House Training
Crate Training
Introducing Your Puppy
Grooming Basics
Basic Grooming Equipment
Choke Collars
Obedience Training
Thunderstorms/4th of July/New Year's Eve
Digging
To Spay or Neuter?
CAUTION
OFA/Penn Hip
Vaccination Types and Protocols
Worms and Other Parasites
Symptoms of Common Illness
How to take your Dog's Temperature
First Aid for your Dog
Emergency Procedures
When It's Time to Say Goodbye
Family Photo Album
Appendix:
Sources for More Information:
Books
Videos
Web Sites
Email Lists
Annual Events
Clubs
Dog Show Organizational Chart
Long-Term Health Risks & Benefits associated with Spay/Neuter
Over the years I have had many questions asked by the families and individuals who have chosen an Airedale Terrier from Blackheath Farms. I realized the necessity of a breed specific book with lots of details about the dogs that would be known only by someone who had spent a major portion of their time/life with these wonderful animals.
I have tried to create not only a guide with information on Airedale Terriers, but about BLACKHEATH AIREDALES specifically, since these are the ones I have lived with!
It's hard to condense 25 years into a few pages, but I hope that I have achieved what I set out to do - answer most of your frequently asked questions about puppy upbringing, and to provide a reference of sorts to help you find more comprehensive information, if need be, in the future.
Since my breeding program is a work of love in progress, I encourage you to contact me with any questions you may have about your new family member. If I can't answer your question, I will help you find someone who can!
Terry
Stevens
Blackheath Farms
1995
History of the Airedale Terrier
The Airedale Terrier is the largest of all the Terrier breeds, and known
as the "King of the Terriers" for good reason. Developed by poor farmers
along the Aire River in Bingley, England about 200 years ago, men who could
not afford a herding dog, a hearth dog, a hunting dog - the Airedale was created
to be all those things. Today it is widely held that an Airedale can be trained
to do what any other breed was developed to do. For example, you couldn't take
an Australian Shepherd and expect to track bear or mountain lions - an Airedale
can do it! You wouldn't expect a Labrador Retriever or a Golden Retriever to
herd sheep, but you could train an Airedale Terrier to do just that and retrieve
water fowl as well! As Teddy Roosevelt said, "The Airedale can do anything
any other dog can do, and then lick the other dog if he has to!" The Airedale
Terrier is truly the dog for all reasons.
The biggest mistake made by most puppy buyers having unrealistic expectations concerning the breed of their "dreams". ALL purebred dogs were created to perform some function in society, and these functions should be thoroughly investigated before bringing your new pup home.
The breeds acknowledged by the American Kennel Club, Inc., are all designated to belong to a "group", and currently, there are seven of them: the Sporting Group, the Working Group, the Herding Group, the Non-Sporting Group, the Toy Group, the Terrier Group, and the Hound Group. The dogs in each of these groups were developed with special traits particular to that group of dogs - the herding dogs HERD, the working dogs WORK, the sporting breeds HUNT, etc., etc. If you want a dog to follow along off lead at your side during your daily mosey through the woods, you don't want a dog that was specifically designed to RUN, a Greyhound, Whippet, or Saluki, for example. The Airedale Terrier, TFAOTP (the finest animal on the planet), naturally, is perfectly suited for these wood rambles.
Actually, the Airedale Terrier is far better suited to adapt to most environments than any other breed of dog, owing to its beginnings - a dog created to be an all-around breed. First and foremost, the Airedale was bred to be a varmint dog - a dog that could be used to dig out foxes, rats, and other den-dwelling critters. If you have ever watched an Airedale dig, you will note an interesting physical anomaly - their front is on a narrower base than their rear. This is to allow for the efficient tunneling of dirt out behind as they dig.
As you have taken the time to acquaint yourself with other breeds, you find many traits that were created specifically to adapt to a task that dog was developed to do - and you now know that the Airedale Terrier is the breed for you!
History of the Airedales of Blackheath
I can still laugh at myself when I remember getting my first Airedale,
Starmist Copper Cosmo. I called her breeder and said, "Misty is almost
9 months old now...how long will it be before she stops digging...?" When
she was able to stop laughing long enough to get a word out of his mouth,she
said, "Terry, you are now owned by an Airedale - the answer is NEVER!"
Boy, a lot of earth has moved under the bridge since then…
The Terrier Group is the largest group of breeds recognized by the American Kennel Club. The word "terrier" is derived from the Latin word terra, or "earth". ALL terriers were developed to "go to ground" or dig to ferret out varmints such as mice, gophers, muskrats, foxes, badgers, and others. ALL terriers dig! Like humans, dogs are individuals - some may dig more than others, some less. But be assured, they all dig! Did I ever have a lot to learn!
My first Airedale was purchased, not because I wanted an Airedale, but because I wanted a dog. I have always had multiple dogs, and the loss of one - even when there are others in the pack - is just as emotional for a multi-dog owner. My then husband had remarked that when one of our older dogs went over the Bridge, he'd like an Airedale. That was an easy one - didn't even have to tell him I was getting a dog - he arrived home one evening to a new "full house."
Our first Airedale, Starmist Copper Cosmo, aka "Misty", was purchased with no idea of showing or breeding. I just happened to pick up the paper the day I decided I wanted a dog - and what do you know? An ad with 6 Airedale puppy girls was there - and they were two blocks away.
The first time family came to our new home for Christmas, I had taken Misty to Monty Pearson to be groomed. She looked lovely and naturally, my already-in-the-dog-world aunt looked at her pedigree and asked if I was going to show her.
Although my cousins and aunt had been showing for years by that time, I had never even seen a dog show. The cousins told me to come to the Legg Lake Match the following weekend, and since I was a newbie, this time out all I had to do was bring a dog! How easy was that? On December 31, 1974, Misty stepped into the ring and took first place in Puppy Movement. I WAS INSTANTLY HOOKED!
Problem was, though she LOVED the show ring, Misty was not show quality. She had Airedale spunk and brains, and showed her heart out. She also had a "skully", too wide Airedale head, a low tail set, and a very horrible woolly coat which was nearly impossible to groom (there is no such thing as a perfect dog). When Monty (who also happens to be the guy all the Terrier show people purchase their stripping knives from) saw how sincere I was about learning to groom and show, he stepped in and offered me a beautiful little bitch from a litter that he had just whelped. This little girl became Starmist Wil'o Wisp (aka Twiggy). Twiggy went on to become the foundation bitch for Blackheath.
Unlike Misty, Twiggy did NOT like the show ring (no perfect dogs, remember?). She did every possible thing a show dog could do to embarrass or horrify when she went into the ring. After a short time, I decided that she should be bred and perhaps she would prove herself in the whelping box.
I learned long ago from my dog-person aunt that the only reason for producing litters of pups is to get better than what you already have. And the way to achieve this is to know your breed.
Twiggy was bred to Ch. Ernie's Jack Flash who was not only the #1 Airedale in the country at the time, but the #1 Terrier Dog from 1979 to 1982. That litter produced my first homebred international champion, Am. Mex. Can. Intl. Blackheath's Dragon Slayer. "Basil" as he was called, was my closest companion for 17 years. Basil's litter sister, Am. Mex. Intl.Ch. Blackheath's Isadora became my first top-winning Airedale, becoming the #1 Airedale bitch in the United States in 1985, #3 Airedale bitch 1986, and tied for #2 top producing dam in 1989. The excitement she generated for me and my son, Taylor is hard to describe. "Sybil" was also one of our "bed dogs" for nearly 15 years.
In the early years, I wanted to "branch out" and also start showing other breeds. My mentor/aunt advised me against this. "Learn your breed," she commanded. In fact, she advised against even having a litter of pups until I had been showing for at least five years. At first, this seemed rather snobby to me - but as the years flew by, I really understood the wisdom of her advice. Dog breeding is not for everyone. It requires a level of commitment that few are willing to sustain. The commitment spans years - in my case, since 1974. This commitment to me means that I stay up on what is new and happening in the Dog World, the Veterinary Literature, new tools for grooming, new techniques for training, maintaining contact with my puppy owners, and of course, it means involvement with Airedale Rescue. Any responsible breeder will be connected with rescue. We are the ones who bring the pups into the world and we certainly should keep tabs on them throughout their lives.
So consequently, because of my commitment to the Airedale, I have never been involved seriously with other breeds - once had a Brussels Griffon for a short period of time, and had a couple of Welsh Terriers (one whose daughter won Best in Show at Westminster in the late '80s or early '90s). But the Airedale was the breed of my heart and the breed I ultimately continued with.
I took the advice of my aunt to wait that five years to breed. I took the time to look at the progeny of the available stud dogs and evaluate them for my breeding program. I reviewed their pedigrees, their sire/dam pedigrees. This 5-year span seems to be the "magical cutoff" for commitment to showing and breeding. People who have been involved in their various breeds for this period of time either continue for years or quietly fade away at this point for varioius reason. So five years into this endeavor, I had discovered a sire who had progeny I had really followed, picked apart ringside - I wanted to know the good and bad about these dogs. That studying commitment actually made choosing my first stud dog easy and the dog I chose was Ch. Ernie's Jack Flash. He was a flashy specimen and loved the show ring. He had attained a Best in Show win at the young age of 13 months! I was wowed. When the time came, I made a phone call to his owner, Carol Scott (Scottshire). Carol and her then husband, Lewis evaluated my Twiggy, and agreed to breed her to Jack Flash ("Josh" as they called him).
It was very exciting for me. My family had dogs all my life, but had never had a litter. I felt as if I was planning a sculpture or some fine painting I was working on in my head. Carol had her kennel man and noted Terrier handler, Wood Wornall handle the breeding, and when it was completed, I took Twiggy home and treated her as the queen she was (then and of course always!) during her pregnancy. 9 weeks later the first litter of Blackheath Airedales was born. This litter contained 6 pups. 2 males and 4 females.
When the litter was rated for me by Woody Wornall, he chose a nice little puppy bitch, but she was actually not a one I had been at all interested in. I was interested in a smallish, typey girl with a lovely head, neck, shoulder, and flashy jet black/blood-red coat. I kept showing her to him, but Woody was sure that the other girl puppy was the pick. A young couple I had met about a year before was purchasing the pick bitch from this breeding. When they came to my home to pick up their pup I explained what Wood had told me about both bitches - emphasizing that Woody had picked one bitch - and all the strong points about her. And I had picked another, based on my 8 weeks of scrutinizing puppy play, attitudes, and just overall gut feeling. The Woody pup had a much prettier head, but for my money, did not have too much else going for her. I shared all this with the couple. After hours of laboring over which pup to purchase, they decided to go with Woody's recommendation, and left with his "pick".
I tried for 6 more months, unsuccessfully, to sell Sybil (by then she had been named…), Blackheath's Isadora, and there were no takers. While I was waiting for someone to come along and "take her off my hands", I started showing her.
Her first large puppy match was at the same Legg Lake where Misty had won years before - a recreation area in Whittier, CA where dog fanciers get together every Sunday and hold practice dog shows and obedience trials, to get the young dogs ring-seasoned. I will never forget - Sybil's first match was on Halloween. There was an incredibly huge (by puppy match criteria) entry of 250 dogs. She won the Breed for Airedales, she went into the Terrier Group later in the afternoon and took her first Group I, and was now entitled to enter the Best in Match ring. It was starting to get dark by the time BIM judging began. Exhibitors had driven up in cars with their headlights on to give the ring a little more light, reminiscent of what I would later see done at the huge Montgomery County Terrier Shows in Philadelphia, when judging goes way into the dark. I was too nervous at the time to give you all the particulars now, but she won. The "throw away" non-pick puppy girl that I had stood behind, had just done something pretty cool! Our trophy was a 150 pound Pumpkin - now that, I remember!
Eventually I took Sybil to see Wood Wornall and discuss a professional show career for her - and her future was set. In her association with him over a year's time she finished her AKC Championship in 3 shows. The very next weekend she was shown as a "Special" her first weekend as a Champion. She won Best of Opposite Sex at the Northern California Terrier Specialty. From that point on I never looked back - she went on to win 33 consecutive Best of Breed wins, several specialty Best Opposite wins, and several Group placements. She never attained that elusive Group I or a Best in Show, but her wins did manage to make her the #1 bitch in the country in 1985, and the #3 bitch the following year, with only 3 showings. Four years later, she was published as the tied for #2 top producing Airedale mom - having produced (along with one other dam) more champion sons and daughters than any other Airedale bitch in the country that year.
Sybil was bred three times, but I feel it was the litter she produced with Ch. Blackjack's Mighty Samson that gave me the best results. That litter produced five pups, Sonny, Delilah, Flame, Ruby and Burgie. Sonny, Delilah, and Flame all attained their championships with style - Sonny at the Chicago Specialty, Delilah with a Specialty BOS win (to her brother, Sonny, who went BOB! More about that win further down…), and Flame with a BOB win over a Best in Show Specials dog. Ruby was shown as a puppy but was never taken into the ring as an adult. However, she did produce a wonderful daughter (Ch. Blackheath's Double Dare) that went on herself to become a champion and my best breedings trace down through her. Although Burgie had the makings of a great show dog, he became a family pet, and unfortunately never made it to the show ring.
Sonny and his litter sister, Delilah were a dynamic duo! They were being shown by handler Danny Sackos in the late 80s. Sonny, as mentioned, took his championship title at the Great Lakes Terrier Specialty in Chicago. This was during the time I was undergoing chemotherapy and didn't go out to many dog shows. Sonny traveled the world - I stayed home and lived vicariously through the photos of his wins.
One afternoon, Danny called and told me he wanted to enter Sonny and Delilah in the Northern California Specialty. He told me, "Delilah will win hands down. Wilma Carter is judging and Delilah is a bitch she will love. I am not sure about Sonny, though Terry. He is young compared to the other Specials dogs that will be there and I'm not sure she will even give him a look." I promptly told Danny to enter him anyway. I had never seen him in the ring and since this dog show was a short 3 hour drive from my home in Templeton, CA - I was going rain, sleet or snow! Thank heavens the Specialty was held in mid April and I didn't have to worry about any of that.
The day of the show, judging began. The male class dogs are always judged first, starting with the youngest dogs and working up to the Open Class. All these entries are dogs that are adults competing for championship points. This is the class where the majority of your competition is entered. Sonny was not in this group - he was being shown as a Special for the first time that weekend. A "Special" is a dog that has already completed championship requirements and is now being taken exclusively into the Best of Breed competition (an organization chart explaining how the judging works is in the Appendix). So, in dog show terms, Sonny had been "moved up."
Then came the bitch judging. Delilah had been entered in the Open Bitch class with heavy competition. To my pleasure, she won that class easily - Danny had been correct in his assessment of what judge Wilma Carter would look for. Then all the winners of all the bitch classes came back into the ring for the Winners Bitch award - and the points toward championship. Delilah walked away with Winners Bitch and 5 points. I thought I was floating. Didn't think it could get any better.
But then the Best of Breed Competition began. Sonny was the first dog to enter the ring and the others followed in, lining up after him. Delilah was at the end of the line, last animal in the ring. Judging began. Wilma examined Sonny, had Danny move him up and back two times, then around the ring and back to stand in front of her. She then pointed to a far corner of the ring, and Danny and Sonny walked slowly in that direction. I turned to a friend who was watching judging with me and said, "Well, that's the beginning of her keeper or thow-away pile…" It didn't matter to me - it was my first experience of watching Sonny show and it was wonderful - he looked fabulous to me.
As judging continued, no other dogs were added to the line behind Sonny. He stood on that side of the ring all by himself, making me certain that he was in the "throw-away" section. Then Wilma finally came to Delilah. She examined her very thoroughly. She had her move the same way she had moved Sonny, and then pointed for Delilah's handler, Gabriel Rangel (who was then Danny's assistant), to go and stand behind Sonny. I NEARLY FAINTED!!! I really was very weak in those days, and turned to my friend and asked him if he would put his arm around my shoulders to keep my from falling. I said, "If she does what I think she is going to do, I am going to faint!"
And I will love Wilma forever! She did exactly what I thought she would do. When the smoke cleared - Sonny had won a Specialty Best in Show, and his litter sister had taken the honors of Best of Winners and Best of Opposite Sex. That day I won every trophy on the table except for Winners Dog! If Sonny had been in the classes that day instead of Breed Competition, who knows, I may have taken that trophy home too! But believe me, I was more than happy with what the dogs did. It's a moment I can go back to over and over in my mind over time. I can still feel the goose bumps and the lump in my throat as I watched Wilma make my dogs famous. Wilma Carter (Dandyaire) died shortly after that, but she will always be remembered by me.
Listening to my aunt who had 30 years up on me in experience had paid off.
Photographs of most of these beautiful dogs, and others, are reproduced in the Family Album chapter.
All the puppies that arrive here now are in some way distantly related to these early dogs of mine. With each new litter, my love for the breed renews itself, along with the commitment to keep the breed strong and healthy.
My puppies have been home-raised (under our feet!), and socialized with other dogs, vacuum cleaners passing by while they sleep, doors slamming. They used to hear Taylor's loud rap music (now they listen to an eclectic collection of Dean's music he listened to growing up - punk, Goth, heavy metal, and of course, my country favorites. Teenagers dashing in and out have been replaced by neighbors' children coming to play with pups but in short - in an environment that will produce sound temperament. We generally have one litter per year (on rare occasions two). The effort to properly socialize the little pups is so time consuming, that once a year is more than enough!
All the pups bred by me at Blackheath have been planned for and created with the purpose of having healthy, gorgeous, intelligent companion dogs. Although I was quite involved with the dog show world for many years, it has become not so important to me - I would rather produce exquisite family companions that could walk into a show ring and win if that was what was expected of them. But my purpose, first and foremost, is to produce healthy, correct Airedale Terriers.
Puppy-Proofing Your Living Area
Your puppy will be lively and curious, especially when he begins to teethe.
Keeping his environment safe will go a long way toward saving him from serious
trouble. Some common preventative measures:
Get on your hands and knees and survey his environment from his point of view. He will be attracted to things you can't see when you are standing up.
Make sure your puppy is always confined in a safe inside area, preferably a puppy crate, when you are absent.
Never leave him unattended outdoors where he may pick up and chew items that could make him ill.
Never leave him unsupervised in the home, where he could wet the carpet, chew shoes, or otherwise get himself into trouble. Would you go to work and let your two-year-old child run free in the home?
Make sure that your pup is not exposed to heights that are not set up to protect him from a fall (balconies, porches, decks).
Protect your puppy from an unfenced swimming pool or pond. They are just as apt to fall in and drown as a young child.
Just like for a small child, make sure that cleaning supplies, fertilizers, disinfectants, insecticides, antifreeze, and mouse/rat poisons are stored on high shelves and locked securely out of reach.
Do not let your pup play with plastic bags - swallowing portions can cause intestinal blockage - and if he gets caught it one, he can suffocate.
As a rule of thumb, if it is small enough, and doesn't move, your puppy will pick it up and try to eat it - so keep buttons, change, sewing supplies, beads, screws, paperclips, nails, staples (the list is endless!) off the floors and away from puppy.
Make sure you know where your baby dog is before you close a door, or roll back in a chair, or even take a backward step. Severe injuries to neck, tails, and little feet can occur when pinched in a door, chair leg, or foot. Also, you could be inadvertently locking your puppy in an "unsecured" area. Make sure you always know where he is.
Look for electrical cords that dangle and could be too interesting to your pup.
Keeping toilet seats down will keep your pup from being injured by a lid falling on his head or getting into some types of cleansers that can be harmful to him.
This is a list of houseplants and outdoor plants that can be poisonous for your puppy. Keep them out of your pup's reach:
Amaryllis
Azalea
Bleeding Heart
Caladium
Clematis
Daffodil
Daphne
Dieffenbachia
English Ivy
Foxglove
Holly
Iris
Ivy
Mistletoe
Morning Glory
Narcissus
Oleander
Philodendron
Poinsettia
Potato
Rhododendron
Rubber Plant
Tobacco
Tulip
Weeping Fig
Yew
Things you will Need Right Away
Bringing a new puppy home is very exciting. To make sure that you are prepared,
here is a list of the items you should have right away:
A 400 or 500 Vari-Kennel
crate
A crate mat to fit a 400 or 500 Vari-Kennel crate
A Collar and leash
A 2 quart stainless steel feeding dish (these last forever)
A large water dish
Appropriate puppy toys (sometimes a cardboard box is just the ticket!) - Toys
that have no eyes, noses, or other "decoration" that can come off
and be swallowed.
If necessary, I will supply a temporary collar for your pup, and you will also be given a bag of food to start him off. Make sure you keep your pup on the diet I have described. Don't be tempted to use a diet your vet may suggest. Most of the foods the vet's sell are high priced and of no better quality than the one I am recommending…and remember…he will also make a few $$$ when you buy it from him, so resist the temptation.
Now you are ready for your pup's first night!
By remembering that this will be your puppy's first night away from mom, brothers,
sisters, and other familiar relatives, you can help make the transition easier
for him. I strongly recommend that you place your puppy's crate in your bedroom
and allow him to sleep with you for the first several nights. He will be able
to hear you, smell you, see you, and this will be of some comfort for him. Before
placing the puppy in his crate for the night, play with him - roll a ball, take
him for a short walk, in other words, tire him out a bit. Be sure to take him
outside and make sure he toilets himself, and then place him in his crate when
you go to bed. Sometimes, with young pups, it helps to hold them on your bed,
petting and stroking them until they fall asleep, and then gently place them
in their crate for the night. Your pup has already been started with crate training,
so it won't be scary for him to sleep there. He will probably go down anywhere
from 9-11 o'clock in the evening (remember it has been a big day for him - and
he can react either way - still be wound up, or be zonked like a rock). He will
normally wake about 5:30 to 6:00 in the morning. When he starts to whimper,
IMMEDIATELY take him outdoors. His house training began before he left "home"
- so please help him to not make mistakes by listening to his requests.
Please don't put your puppy in the bathroom, or in a utility room, or the kitchen, or garage, or God forbid - outside! to spend his first nights with you. He is still an infant, and needs to be lovingly cared for. I can guarantee that if his crate is placed in your bedroom for several nights, he will rapidly begin to understand the command "Bedtime!", or "Go to sleep!" and will settle down very fast. If he does whimper, a gentle "Shhhhhhhhhhh!" should suffice and get him to stop. In a few days you can move the crate to another area if you wish, as long as you can hear him when he needs to go out in the morning.
Since being weaned, your pup has been receiving the following: IAMS "SMART
PUPPY" ™, along with: boiled rice, boiled ground beef, boiled or roasted
chicken, and occasionally ONE of the following items have been added (about
2-3x/week): hard boiled egg (shell and all - pop then in the food processor
and pulverize them), cottage cheese, grated cheddar cheese, goat's cheese, and
goat's milk. ***IAMS "Smart Puppy" has never been on the contaminated
food list.
Recently, the literature has demonstrated that this puppy chow actually DOES help puppies to be smarter, with evidence of pups reaching mental and emotional milestones earlier than counterparts not fed this feed. I recommend maintaining your pup on this feed until they are six months of age. At that time, you will cut feeding times back to 2x/day (morning and evening), and introduce your pup to ADULT FORMULA kibble. Do not maintain your puppy on puppy chow beyond this time.
PLEASE do not let your vet talk you into one of his special diets. DO NOT USE OTHER PUPPY CHOWS. The only variation to the diet described here is the BARF raw diet, which is exceptionally healthy for the dogs. Dogs on BARF do not have to have their teeth cleaned, and make fewer vet visits (other than for routine health checks). I feed my adult dogs a combination of BARF and the diet described here. I do not have the cold storage facilities here to keep the amounts of frozen food on hand that I would have to keep to feed the number of dogs I have.
The pup has been fed on a regular schedule: 6:00 a.m., 12:00 p.m., and 6:00 p.m. in the following amounts:
Dry kibble - approximately
1/2 cup
Boiled Rice - approximately 1/2 cup
Boiled/Roasted Meat - approximately 1/2ecup
Bedtime - 2 small dog biscuits
The amount the pup is fed will increase over the next few weeks. By the time the pup is 5 months old, cut back to 2 meals per day. Remember, fat/overweight pups are prone to some joint and/or other health issues as adults. A slim (not skinny) puppy is always preferred.
ALWAYS have fresh water readily available for your pet. The ONLY exception to this is during potty training, when I recommend that his water be picked up after 7 p.m. to help him with bladder control. As house training is achieved, leave plenty of fresh water down for him 24/7.
Be sure to wash your dog's water and feeding dish daily - you wouldn't eat out of a dish that had been used and sat out for the day - he shouldn't either.
**Veterinary literature is now clearly showing that large breed pups that are being fed any type of puppy chow diets are far more prone to develop hip dysplasia than pups that are weaned onto adult food at six months of age. Your puppy's mother was fed puppy chow and BARF as soon as she was bred, and this diet was continued right up to the time that your puppy was weaned. That means your puppy has already had 4 months of feeding with puppy chow.
Young pups require a lot of rest - that's when they do their growing! You need
to set aside a place in your home where the puppy can nap, undisturbed, for
the first few months. A crate is probably the best spot, although a dog bed
can work nicely. The only problem with a dog bed is that if the pup wakes up
from his nap and you aren't around to notice, he will promptly relieve himself
somewhere in the house - thus taking his house training schedule down a few
pegs. I prefer to use the crate for naps. The pup can be secured in the crate
after you see he has gone in for rest. When he wakens and begins to whimper,
you can let him straight outdoors, and help keep him on track with potty training.
Your pup will begin to teeth at about 12 weeks of age. His gums will begin to
swell, occasionally bleed, and he will need to chew. I have found old socks
which I have tied knots in (so that when I find them lying around the house
- I know they are dog socks and don't wash them and put them back in my son's
sock drawer) really help with the teething. I soak them in water, and then wring
them slightly. Then I put them into a baggy and then into the freezer. When
the pup needs to teeth, I take one out and let him chew on it. They can be reused
often - just take them straight from the washer after laundering, and return
them to the freezer. Since the pup's gums will bleed during teething, the socks
need to be washed on a regular basis.
While his gums are sore he may begin to drink more water than usual. Along with the increased water intake, he will urinate more frequently and his bowels will become loose. This is normal. Loose stools do NOT mean diarrhea. Watch for signs of diarrhea. Diarrhea is a symptom, of something going on - but not a disease. If diarrhea occurs and lasts more than 24 hours, contact your vet. These guys can go down pretty fast, and you will find that Airedales (even pups) are very stoic. They really have to be sick for you to notice that something is wrong.
During teething, it is wise to keep an eye on your puppy's bite. Sometimes puppy teeth don't fall out when they are supposed to and the puppy can "double fang", causing the adult bite to be off if the puppy teeth are not removed. There is no way to look at a young puppy, however, and tell which of the pups in s litter may have this problem. Also, some pups have lower jaws that start off narrower than the upper. They will have longer canines that grow straight up into the roof of the mouth rather than gently angled out to the side of the mouth. When this happens, the teeth create holes, or pockets in the roof of the mouth, which can cause the lower jaw to hang up and prevent normal development of the jaw. In most cases, I will have identified this problem before you take this pup home with you. These teeth are ground down at the tips, allowing them to clear the pocket in the roof of the mouth, and thus allowing the jaw to grow normally. As a rule, Airedales do poorly under anesthesia, and you should always weigh the risks before putting a young puppy under general anesthesia. Always caution your vet to use isoflurane gas without Acepromazine for any general anesthesia procedures performed on your Airedale - as a puppy or as an adult. If your vet questions the procedure I have performed, tell him that I was instructed on how to do this by Dr. Josephine Deubler, DVM, Dean of Veterinary Medicine at Pennsylvania State University.
Sometimes your pup may chew up and swallow one of his puppy teeth. Don't be alarmed. It happens all the time. It can't hurt him! It will be dissolved in his stomach during normal digestion.
During teething, it can also help if you rub the same gum preparations on your puppy's gums as you would a teething infant. Baby aspirin can also be given to help with the discomfort. CAUTION: NEVER use Ibuprofen, Advil, Motrin, Tylenol, or Naprosyn. These medications can be lethal to a dog. ONLY use baby aspirin for teething discomfort.
Ear Gluing
We glue the ears on Airedale pups at the time they begin to teeth, although
it is not uncommon to glue the ears of an 8-9 week old pup, if the ears need
more help. The purpose of gluing is to set the ears and hold them in place during
a time when the muscles of the face are swelling and changing, and the calcium
load coming into the teeth is high. If a pup's ears are going to "fly",
this will be the time it will happen. Although it is possible to set ears when
the dog is older (I have done it as late as 14 months), it is a lot easier to
do it before 6 months of age.
The technique is simple. The insides of the ears are thoroughly cleaned with an Otic cleansing solution and dried. Then an antibiotic ear powder is introduced to each ear (I use Holiday Ear Powder). The entire inside of the ear and top of the head is swabbed with Tincture of Benzoin, an antiseptic preparation (you have smelled this if you have ever had surgery). When the ToB is dry, the inside outer triangle of the tip of the ear is covered with glue. The glue is allowed to become tacky. The ear is then flipped forward and pinched at the inside and outside creases to see where it should be set against the head. When placement is optimal, the ear is then pushed up against the head and held until dry. The procedure is repeated on the opposite side. Before the ear is completely set, take your index finger and poke it in the ear at the outside of the head, making sure the ear hasn't been totally sealed shut - this would definitely invite infection. Before the ear is glued, sniff the inside of your pup's ears. Familiarize yourself with a "healthy ear" odor. During the time the ears remain glued, sniff them from time to time. If the begin to smell sour, they may be infected. No cause for alarm - just necessary to take the ears down for a time.
To take the ears down, in the case of infection, use Neosporin Plus (it contains Xylocaine), and gently rub it around the outside edges of the ear. It will take about 24 hours for the petroleum in the Neosporin to break down the glue, which will become very sticky/gummy. At this point you can apply more Neosporin (the Xylocaine helps reduce pain), and gently rub off the glue from the inside of the ear. Gently clean the ear out with hydrogen peroxide and allow it to dry. It may take a couple of days for the ear to dry out and become non-inflamed. Wait a couple of more days, and then re-glue them. An ear-gluing note here: in all the years that I have been gluing puppy ears, I have only seen 3 infections. They are not common, but they do happen. Unless the ear is seriously infected (and I am sure you would catch this way before it came to that), there is no reason to take the puppy to the vet for treatment. If you have questions, you can always contact me. You will be put in touch with someone in your area who can continue the gluing (most likely for a small fee) in the event that you are unable to return to me for re-gluing. The ears may need to be glued continuously for 2-3 months.
Choose Your Puppy Toys Wisely!
Investigate some of the larger pet department stores or pet shops for some good
toys. Any toy that he can fit completely into his mouth is too small. If you
chose rawhide for your pup - make SURE it was not "made in China".
I don't use rawhide chews from that country - incidents of toxins introduced
to dogs from chews imported from third world countries are too risky in my opinion.
The dogs do love to chew, especially when teething. I recommend the Nylabone
HARD plastic chews in various shapes. Make sure toys cannot be splintered or
fragmented. Some of my dogs' personal favorites are soft stuffed toys that either
come without eyes and/or noses, or other decorations that can be chewed and
swallowed, or I remove them when I bring them home. Sometimes an old cardboard
box can be the best toy! The puppy will get hours of enjoyment tearing it up,
it can't hurt him, it's free, and when he's done, you can sweep the mess up
and into the trash it goes! Keep shoes, stockings, and items that you don't
want the pup to play with, out of the puppy's play area. If the puppy begins
to chew on something you don't want him to play with, don't discipline him.
Rather, use the command "NOT THE PUPPY'S!" and distract him by giving
him a toy he can play with. When he takes HIS toy from you, use the command
"TAKE IT" and tell him how good he is for taking it. Soon, when the
pup has something he should not be playing with in his mouth, all you have to
say is "Not the Puppy's!", and he will drop it and turn to look for
something he can "Take" instead. When he does this, give him a biscuit
and a pat on the head. He is LEARNING!
Puppy Kindergarten
Enroll your pup in a puppy kindergarten or socialization class as soon as the
instructor in your area allows. Look for classes with 10 or less "students".
This is a good time to get your dog out with their humans and other dogs. A
well socialized puppy will grow into a well socialized adult dog - confident,
friendly, and non-aggressive toward other dogs or humans.
House Training
Your pup's house training was started when he was about 4 weeks of age. Starting
at that age, when the pups awaken in the morning, they are all immediately taken
outdoors, and given the command "GO POTTY". The command is repeated
until the pups complete their business. They are then praised and praised, AND
PRAISED! and given little treats. They are then allowed to play outdoors for
a short time while their breakfast is being prepared. This process, taking the
pups outside, giving the command, praising and treating, is continued throughout
the day - each time the pup wakes from a nap, has something to eat, or a drink
of water. In addition, since I have a dog door in place, it is a short time
before the pups are following the big dogs out the dog door. By the time the
pups leave here at 8-10 weeks of age, they are not 100%, but they have a very
clear picture of what being taken outside is all about and often will already
be scratching to be let out to potty.
Here is a common housetraining mistake - you let your puppy outside, close the door, and go into the kitchen to make coffee. 15-20 minutes go by. The pup is whining and scratching at the back door. You let the pup in the house; he comes right to you, squats, and urinates in the house. Do you see what has happened? The poor puppy has been outside for 15-20 minutes waiting to go potty for you. He holds it and holds it. He is getting very uncomfortable. He scratches at the door and whines to get your attention. As soon as you let him in, he runs up to you and urinates - expecting you to give him treats and praise. So YOU MUST be with the puppy while he completes his business for the first few weeks. By using the potty command - you can assist him to get his job done fast so that both of you can go back indoors and play!
Also, remember that in the dog pack, urinating is a way for a lesser dog to show submission to the Alpha of the pack. If your puppy is a submissive urinator, THE worst thing you can do is to punish him for this - it will only make the problem grow - he will try harder to show you he is trying to please you, urinating more frequently, each time he sees you. Instead, if the puppy submissively urinates, IGNORE IT. Remove him from the area, and clean up the mess. Never correct him for this type of urinating problem. Soon, as his confidence in his new "pack" and himself grows, the problem will cease.
Crate Training
Crate training is a wonderful tool! You have probably heard me say that raising
a puppy without a crate is like raising a toddler without a play pen - it can
be done, but why would you want to? Dogs are pack animals and will instinctively
dig dens as a safe place to sleep and rest. Crating your dog is not cruel. It
is a secure, comfortable place for him. What IS cruel is having to undergo surgery
to remove an obstruction - something that the dog chewed up in your absence
- that causes the dog great pain and discomfort and could have been avoided
if the dog had been crated. We start the pups here with crate training at about
5 weeks, slowly building up the time they spend in the crate each day, and always
taking them out and giving them treats and playing with them, until they are
sleeping in crates overnight - and are dry in the morning. The crate is not
punishment for them. It is an area of security and comfort. In our home we have
crates strategically placed and left open all the time. My dogs will put themselves
away for naps during the day when they are tired. When I see one of the pups
has gone into a crate, I quietly close the door. He will let me know when he
needs to be let out!
I begin crate training the pups at about the same time we begin house training. By the time the pups are 8-10 weeks old, and heading off to their new homes, they have been sleeping in a crate throughout the night without a fuss. This is an easy way to make sure that the pup is not messing in the house overnight, and if he does have an accident in his crate, it's a lot easier to clean up than your carpets!
Introducing Your Puppy
To Children and Babies
Airedales are wonderful natural guardians for children. My son, Taylor, learned
to walk by pulling himself up on Basil's beard. Basil and his sister, Sybil,
were 6 years old when Taylor was born - and neither had ever been around kids.
They both adored him. However, remember that children MUST be trained how to
treat a dog.
I have read of someone whose children stood on their young puppy and the mother actually became angry WITH THE DOG when the dog began growling his displeasure at being used as a trampoline! Children must be taught to respect animals, and that animals have feelings, just like they do. Mutual respect goes a long way toward building a great relationship between dogs and children.
Never allow young children to walk around carrying the pup. They mostly carry the pup incorrectly, and can dislocate his shoulders by picking him up incorrectly. Also, if they drop a squirmy pup, he can be injured. I allow children to play with the pups and hold them, only if they are sitting on the ground. Let your children know that if the puppy is frightened or hurt, he may use his teeth, which are very sharp, and HURT! They must be taught never to grab at the pup, to pull his tail or ears, never to poke his eyes, and never to make loud or threatening noises. He is a sensitive living creature and wants to be treated much the same way a young child wants to be treated.
Older children can be taught responsibility by being allowed to help care for the puppy and as he grows into a dog - feeding, brushing, bathing, are all jobs that kids can learn to do - and do a good job of it!
Never leave your puppy alone with an infant even for a second. Bring them together very slowly, allowing the puppy to adjust to the baby's smell and sounds. The baby will be a totally different creature from an adult or a child, or another animal that the pup has ever been introduced to. Times to adjust to small babies may vary. Give both of them time.
To Company
This is a very important part of socialization. Never allow your puppy to jump
on company or visitors to the home. Have a biscuit ready to reward him as soon
as the visitor comes in, and only give it to him when he sits without jumping.
Praise him and reward him for correct behavior. He will soon learn that he gets
more attention when he stays on the ground than when he jumps up.
To Other Pets
Use care when introducing your pup to other pets. It is a good idea to have
both pets on a leash when introducing the pup to an older dog. Do not leave
them alone together until it is apparent that they are friendly with one another.
If you have a cat that is not declawed, be aware of the damage the cat's claws can do to your pup's eyes. Always give the cat a "way out" to get up and away from the pup if he becomes too investigative of his new friend.
Remember that your old pets can become jealous of a new pup. Don't expect them to love him right away. They will become friends at their own pace.
Grooming Basics
At about 6 weeks of age, I begin table training the pups. Any Airedale, whether
it will be a loved family companion, or a great show dog, needs to know how
to behave on a grooming table - for your groomer, for inspection by your vet,
or for you to trim his nails, or check his ears for foxtails, etc. We start
the pups with standing on the table for short periods, slowly increasing the
time with each session. All the while, they are being introduced to being gently
brushed, combed, having their feet played with. We start trimming toenails on
the pups at about 2-3 days of age. The nails are very sharp when the pups are
born, and many times, a bitch will turn her back on nursing because of the pain
these little claws can cause her. We trim the pup's nails every week, and play
with the feet in the interim. You need to continue this practice once the pup
is at home with you. If you trim the nails ever week, chances of nipping a quick
and causing bleeding and pain is nil. Also, the more you play with the feet
and the more frequently you trim the nails, the easier the job will be to accomplish
- I actually have had dogs who will hand you their paws for nail trimming! You
can do the same with your dog!
By the time your pup arrives home, he has probably already had several baths. Clean dogs are more apt to be let in the house and allowed to be part of the family. We bath dogs here once a week - sometimes more often if they are being readied for a show. Before you bath your pup, put him up on the grooming table and gently brush him. Trim his nails. Use an Otic solution and clean the inside of his ears (when they are no longer glued). Now he's ready to bathe. When you bathe him, be sure you have a non-slip mat in the floor of your tub. If he slips and slides around, he is not likely to enjoy the ritual. Use a good quality shampoo. I use Rio Vista for Hard Coats - it gives the coat good texture. However, there are many other good ones available. Wet him thoroughly and apply shampoo. I use a Luffa mitt to help scrub the dog after the shampoo has been applied, paying careful attention to the tummy, the genitals/anus, bottoms of the feet - just scrubbing him all over. Expressing a dog's anal gland is an important part of his bath, but does not need to be done weekly (if you bathe weekly). Once a month is usually frequent enough. To express the gland, take the base of the tail in one hand and pull it back towards the dog's head. Apply the forefinger and thumb on each side of the anus - just at the base of the tail. Using gentle pressure, pull away from the anus, still squeezing your thumb and forefinger towards each other. The excrescence will be brownish and very malodorous. Any change in the consistency or color of the excrescence should be reported to your vet - a gland might be infected. Be careful not to get water into the dog's ears while you are bathing him. The anatomy of the dog's ear is such that if water gets down into the ear, yeast infections can be introduced. They are very hard to clear once the dog has one and can recur frequently (each time he gets water in there). To help avoid this, I take cotton balls and place them in the ear, and then plug over the cotton with a dab of Vaseline. After the dog is rinsed thoroughly (leaving shampoo in can cause itchy dandruff for dogs too!), I remove the cotton balls and gently wipe the Vaseline out with a soft tissue. Put the dog back up on the grooming table and blow him dry, using your pin brush, and a wide-toothed metal comb. When he is dry, use scissors and trim out the bottom of his feet, around his pads. In this area, the hair can become heavily matted, causing irritation and foot problems. If the hair mats are thick, they can mask foxtails and burrs that may become embedded in the feet.
1. Trim nails before
you wash the dog. If you accidentally cause a nail to bleed, you are already
going to give him a bath.
2. Trim nails often-long, unattended nails can cause a pup to have splayed toes
and go down in his pasterns (walk on his thumb rather than on his tippy toes).
3. Brush the dog before bathing - it's a lot easier to get tangles out of a
dry coat than a wet one - and washing will compound any tangles already in the
coat.
4. Don't get water in your dog's ears while bathing.
5. Don't forget to clean the anal gland regularly.
6. Thoroughly dry the dog.
Basic Grooming Equipment
Whether your dog will be a pet or is a show prospect, regular grooming will
be
needed throughout his life. Here is a list of basic grooming equipment:
* Grooming table
with grooming arm and noose
* Wide slicker brush
* Good quality pin brush
* Good quality wide tooth metal comb (Greyhound)
* Magnet stripper
* Small spray bottle containing water (use this to spritz the coat before
brushing-anytime you brush the dog)
* Medium stripping knife (I recommend Pearson or Mars)
* Coarse stripping knife (I recommend Pearson or Mars)
* Nail clippers (I use both the guillotine style and a Dremel grinder)
* Quick Stop (to help stop nail bleeding after accidents)
* Tooth brushing kit (I use the finger cot style, and beef-flavored toothpaste)
* Good quality grooming shears (Oster makes several good, reasonably priced
ones)
* Oster A5 with detachable blades, #10 blade
* Cool Lube (to help keep clippers cool while in use)
* Blade wash (to keep your clipper blades sharp)
* Good quality dog shampoo
* Bathing Mitt
The above items do represent an investment. However, most of them never need replacing, and will be used throughout the life of the dog. And remember, a regularly bathed and brushed Airedale DOES NOT SHED!
I will supply you with a catalog from one of the major pet supply distributors when you take your puppy home. Some of the best are Cherrybrook, Care-a-Lot, Foster & Smith, and JB Wholesale Pet.
Choke Collars
A reminder that choke collars do just that. Although choke collars are necessary
in training almost any dog to walk properly on a leash without pulling, never
leave a choke collar on your dog after he has been for his walk. It can become
tangled in brush, furniture, drapery pulls, and the outcome is not a pleasant
one for the dog - or for you. Always remember to remove the collar after training
sessions and/or walks.
Obedience Training
Airedales are felt by many to be difficult to train. NOT SO! Airedales were
developed to be independent thinkers - meaning they do not necessarily need
human direction to make decisions for themselves. This makes them highly intelligent,
but very willful when they are being asked to do a task that does not interest
them. For this precise reason, the ability to THINK on their own, they were
chosen and trained for dangerous courier missions during WWI.
These traits and more make the Airedale a wonderful companion - but definitely not a dog for all people or families. They require regular grooming. They require regular exercise. They require training. They also require lots of human contact - they are not dogs that can be shut out in the backyard. They MUST be a member of your family.
It's never too early to start your puppy understanding basic commands: "Sit", "Stay", and "No". You can begin these right away at home.
I had the opportunity to meet Cesar Milan, now called the "Dog Whisperer", several years ago. Cesar has a very interesting way to relate to dogs and training, which I thoroughly support. He feels that in the United States, we distribute the time we spend with our dogs incorrectly. He rightly relates that dogs in the wild (wolves, dingos and others) DO NOT spend their days lying on a couch waiting for someone walk in the house and feed them. Rather, they spend their day following a leader from place to place looking for food and water. THEY WALK. They are always in a state of "calm submission", and the pack leader, is always in a state of "calm assertion". He also tells how while living in Mexico and studying dogs in his native country, that there were never any animal maulings such as we read about in our newspapers and hear about on the 10 o'clock news. In the third world countries, the dogs are treated as animals, not as humans. They are not confused about their place in a pack. He believes we relate to them in a backwards fashion - for example: "This is MaXX, he is an Airedale, he's my dog, and dogs are animals. He, in fact, should be related to as: "This animal is a dog, he is an Airedale, and I call him MaXX." It actually is a very different way to relate to them, and I have to admit, that I did relate to my dogs in the former fashion prior to my meetings with Cesar.
Most of the behavioral issues we have with our dogs can be negated with forms of exercise. The bad news is that to address these issues can be labor intensive on the front side, but on the back side - most of the problems are reduced or entirely alleviated with exercise of some form in a short time.
Cesar presents a graph that he feels applies to how we as a country relate to our dogs and then the one that he thinks should actually be followed.
The time we spend with our dogs most likely looks like this:
What he recommends looks like this:
It's one thing to enjoy a dog as a member of your family, but first and foremost,
you must always remember he is an animal known as a dog, of the breed Airedale
Terrier, now known as whatever you decide to name your pup.
By walking daily with your dog (and I am talkin' a WALK, not a mosey), never allowing him to walk in front of you, only next to or behind you, you are building a bond with him that will last a lifetime. He will accept you as his pack leader. In the pack, the followers ALWAYS obey the leader - and the leader need only make a sound of disapproval - a hiss, or a growl, and the undesired behavior will immediately disappear.
The same will work with your dog. While you are out walking him, NOT SAUNTERING, but WALKING, any time he tries to walk in front of you, as a pup, use your knee/leg and make him go back to walking beside or behind you. As an adult, you can use your hand, or by then, a loud hiss, or some other disapproving sound, and this will yield acceptable results.
Be sure to use a choke collar for walking. In my experience it is the BEST tool for training a dog to walk on a leash. Cesar has also recommended a soft COTTON (not nylon) rope, with a loose slip knot for the dog's neck, worn high up on the dog's neck, just behind the jaw. This noose placement will not choke your dog and will actually make it obey you more promptly. If your dog pulls forward and tugs on the lead, pull the lead to your right or left causing the dog to be pulled off balance. It will make him THINK and remind him that you are in charge of him. If you PULL, it will create an automatic response from him to LUNGE forward (as a Word to the Wise: Never waste your money purchasing a nylon mesh-type leash. Invest in a 6" leather lead instead. If you do purchase the nylon leash, the first time you are walking your dog and it flies off in an unexpected direction, pulling the nylon through your palm and causing a really neat abrasion burn, you will wish you had spent your money on leather. And besides, the leather lasts a lifetime. I have leather leads that are 20+ years old that are still in almost new shape).
When the dog understands his place in your pack, and accepts you as the pack leader, you will find that obedience commands/training, are actually just icing on the cake.
I have been to seminars and participated in Cesar's workshops. I have seen him arrive in a cargo van containing about 30 of his dogs - all breeds, all sizes, neutered, intact, male, and female. Most of his dogs are rejects from the area in South Central Los Angeles where he resides. He will open the cargo van, and here will be all these dogs packed in there together. To make his point, Cesar will begin to talk and walk back in forth in front of the dogs in the van, never making eye contact with the dogs, but just explaining his behavior to the workshop members. What his dogs are doing, is waiting for permission from the pack leader to exit the van. After several minutes, with his dogs never taking their eyes off of him, he turns and with the wave of his arm, gives permission. The pack swarms to the ground around him.
At the workshop, the participants were allowed to bring up to 2 dogs per person attending. After an hour, I have seen 90 strange dogs running in a pack - no fights, no aggression, just being dogs, with Cesar at the front of the menagerie.
A brisk walk takes the dogs into a zone of calm submission. I would liken it to giving a child with ADHD a cup of strong coffee. The stimulant effect would be massive for a very short period of time, and then the child would be so worn out from the stimulus, that he would be compliant. It works the same for the dogs.
When the dogs are in the zone of calm submission, then as the pack leader you can exert calm assertion - making them obey your will, without loud voices, without any difficulty really.
The method is truly amazing. I took MaXX and Evilene to the workshop, with the following results:
MaXX (Blackheath's XXtreme Measure) is a very powerful, energetic, Jubilant Delinquent (to use a phrase borrowed from my friend, Paul Diggins). MaXX's behavior can be misinterpreted as aggressive. It is, however, just the opposite - he is so full of happiness to play, he can be scary. And if another dog reacts in a defensive manner, then MaXX is READY TO RUMBLE instantly. It was never fun to take him for a walk - because he is a big dog I had to be hyper vigilant at all times regarding other dogs. It wore ME out, not him. I can remember taking him for walks around the lake where I lived, and in the mornings when the air was still, I could hear people coming toward me with their dogs saying "Uh-Oh". MaXX was the "Uh-Oh" dog.
What Cesar did for him, and what made a remarkable difference, was to give MaXX a job. He suggested that I obtain a back pack, and put it on MaXX at random times, for irregular periods of time. Sometimes placing cans of dog food (or something similar) inside one side of the pack, sometimes on both sides, and sometimes allowing him to wear it empty. Sometimes he would wear it for an entire day, sometimes for only a couple of hours, sometimes for every other hour, and some days not at all. It gave MaXX's incredibly active, intelligent brain something to WORK ON. When I used the pack, he was much more relaxed. He was in the ZONE.
Cesar LOVED Evilene (Blackheath's Primevil). He was very pleased to see that I had presented her to the workshop on a show lead. She was in full show coat as she was on her way to the Airedale Specialty in Southern California in a week or so. He took her lead from me and said, "I LOVE show dogs. This is what dogs are all about! Look at how confident she is, and how she turns her head back and forth surveying her environment. Notice that the show lead, even though it is as thin as a string, is up under her chin, and gives the handler easily the ability to turn her head from side to side with minimal motion of the wrist, controlling her." My issue with Evilene was that she WAS aggressive toward other animals - male and female - didn't matter. I was not certain how she would react to being around other Airedales in the show ring and certainly didn't want to be disqualified because of overly aggressive behavior. Evilene's fix was actually too easy. It was the WALKING thing. Before each encounter at a dog show, Evilene had to be walked (and again, NOT sauntering) for about 90 minutes. By the time we got to the show ring, she was so chilled out, she just floated around the ring. So much so, that her first show earned her a 3 point major! Thank you, Cesar!
For more on Cesar's way of training he dogs, visit his website at http://www.dogpsychologycenter.com. It's an eye opening experience. Many of the behavior problems people experience with the dogs is because the dogs are bored out of their gourds!
LEARN TO WALK YOUR DOG - not just taking him out to relieve himself - but WALKING. The results for both of you will be amazing.
Thunderstorms/4th of July/New Year's Eve
Many dogs are extremely frightened by loud noises. More dogs are lost during
thunderstorms, the 4th of July, and New Year's Eve, probably than combined throughout
the entire year. Protect your dog during these times - put him in his crate.
Dogs can be desensitized by exposing them to the sound of fireworks at a lower level and when he shows calm behavior, reward him with a treat. Slowly increase the sound level and continue rewarding his calm behavior until the sound is accepted without reaction.
Digging
Your Airedale Terrier was "made" to dig. If you take the time to look
at his body confirmation, you will see something very interesting. When looking
at him from the front, you will see straight legs, fairly close together. When
looking at him from the rear, you will see strong, double-muscled thighs, and
the rear legs form an arch. Why? So when he digs, he can just stand normally
and throw that dirt right behind him, not having to assume an unnatural body
posture to do so, and thus, tiring him out before his quarry could be located
and caught.
Your dog's favorite "quarry" will probable be gophers and ground squirrels in your yard, depending on where you live. Over the years I have learned that if I provide a "neutral zone", or an area where the dogs are allowed to dig, the damage to landscaped areas is much diminished (though accidents do occur from time to time). We fondly named the neutral zone "Mount Airedale". From time to time it had to be reformed with an afternoon of shoveling to pile the dirt back up - I would find that as the dogs dug, after a while, Mount Airedale disappeared into the four winds. When I lived in the city and did not have acreage for the dogs to do their digging, Mount Airedale was an important part of our yard. HOWEVER, it was not an object of landscape art - I had a lattice-work fence placed in front of it, and decorated around with potted plants, shielding the Mount from all who would not understand my dedication to the dogs' well-being. This idea might work in your yard. If you have additional questions, just ask me and we can figure something out.
To Spay or Neuter?
It has long been held in the veterinary community that dogs and bitches that
were left intact ran a risk of contracting various types of cancer in later
life - prostate cancer for the males, and mammary cancers for the females. However,
recent literature shows that this risk is only slightly higher than dogs left
intact. I have included a copy of a 10-year study by the Guide Dog Association
of America concerning their findings regarding early spaying and neutering.
READ IT AND DISCUSS IT WITH YOUR VET.
Please keep in mind, however, that breeding dogs is a lifelong commitment, not a passing fancy. Additionally, consideration should be made towards the reality that living with spayed and neutered dogs is a lot easier for a family AND their pet. A litter of pups should NEVER be brought into the world so that children can witness the miracle of birth - turn on the Discovery channel - it's a lot cheaper and no work at all. Any breeder should always be prepared to take any dog that has some from her kennel back at any time, for any reason. Responsible breeding is a commitment to the health of our breed, and a privilege. Breeding dogs is not a right. All the puppies that leave Blackheath Farms that are not purchased specifically for the purpose of showing and/or breeding stock, are to be spayed or neutered by 2 years of age. They are sold with Limited AKC registration. Literature proves that dogs and bitches spayed at this time run no higher risk of developing cancer or other reproductive-related illness than the non-spay/neuter population. You will be asked to provide me with certification of such surgery from your veterinarian at that time. Visit http://www.bluegrace.com/virtual breeding.html and have a good look through it. Be responsible. Understand why you should spay or neuter.
When do I spay or neuter?
I strongly recommend to my puppy buyers that they wait for the animal to mature
before performing the surgery. In the case of dogs, if you purchased him because
you like the macho appearance of the male dog physique, wait for him to start
lifting his leg before you have him neutered (and read the Guide Dog Study on
male neutering-related diseases). He is not sexually mature until that point,
and there is no danger of him breeding accidentally until then. If you have
done the job with his house-training, he will never mark in the house. He will
be between 9-11 months old and fairly mature appearing by then. Literature currently
suggests that you wait even an additional year or more to perform this surgery.
If you have ever seen the difference between a stallion and a gelding, you will
know what I am talking about. In the show horse world, many folks geld colts
to keep them looking elegant and "extreme" - once the testosterone
kicks in, a stallion's neck thickens, his overall muscular appearance increases
- one look at him and he is instantly recognizable as "male". The
same applies to the appearance of male dogs.
In the case of females, there is WAY TOO MUCH veterinary literature available now that indicates that bitches that are spayed too young develop LIFELONG problems with urinary incontinence. DO NOT let your vet talk you into spaying too early. Airedale bitches from my breeding rarely come into season before 13 months - in nearly 30 years, I have only had 2 come in season for the first time earlier than that. You can wait until your girl is 11-12 months old, and fully potty trained. Recent literature encourages owners to wait over 2 years to protect against life threatening illness (read the Guide Dog Study on female spaying-related diseases).
CAUTION!
A word of caution. Owning an Airedale Terrier is a responsibility. A fact about terriers that isn't a comfortable topic to discuss - ALL terriers were bred to be little destroyers - which in many cases can make some Airedales (happily not all) very other-animal-aggressive. Let me caution you now, while your pup is small, darling, and trainable, always remember that you own a terrier. The best trained dog is capable of breaking training and doing something unexpected - your puppy will be no different. Something I have learned while living with Airedale Terriers for the past 25+ years: WHEN YOU ARE DEALING WITH ANIMALS - ALWAYS EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED! Plan for it - just as if you would for small children.
* Never walk
your dog without a leash.
* Enroll your puppy in a puppy kindergarten class to develop good socialization
skills.
* Never throw your puppy into a group of other dogs without proper doggy
introductions.
* NEVER take your dog's easy going nature for granted.
A little bit of knowledge, understanding, and common sense can go a long way in preventing unwanted incidents involving your beloved family pet, and make living with your adult dog a much more enjoyable journey.
OFA/Penn Hip
Of all the health problems that plague purebred dogs, Canine Hip Dysplasia (CHD)
is one of the most prevalent and frustrating problem that Airedale breeders
deal with. The Good News… Statistics according to the Orthopedic Foundation
for Animals (OFA) show, however, that since 1985 the incidence of dysplasia
in the Airedale Terrier has decreased by 40%. My commitment to my breed and
my guarantee to my puppy owners is that NO DOG OR BITCH IN MY BREEDING PROGRAM
WILL BE BRED UNLESS IT IS CERTIFIED OR PRELIMED OFA GOOD OR BETTER or PENN-HIP
test scored in the "acceptable for breeding" percentile prior to it's
introduction to my breeding program. Although this is no guarantee that there
will not be a dysplastic pup in a litter (OFA Excellent parents have been known
to throw dysplastic pups), it is a step toward my commitment to help eradicate
this disease in our breed.
Studies are now being undertaken at companies such as Vet-Med, Inc., and many well-known Universities, to determine if the disease is genetic/hereditary, and if it can be tested for prior to a breeding taking place. A recent Symposium held at Cornell University found that not only do genetic factors apparently figure largely, so do diet and exercise of the young pups. Diets that are too rich in fat and protein tend to boost the growth of young dogs. In larger breeds, this can spell disaster to a dog that is already genetically predisposed to CHD. To compound the problem, it has also been found that allowing young animals to exercise too freely can cause stress on the joints, ligaments, and tendons of the not-yet-adult skeletal structure, and can contribute to the problem as well. Whatever the cause, it is can be a heartbreaking diagnosis - ranging from borderline dysplasia - where the dog may have mild symptoms in old age, to severe disease requiring total and costly hip replacement surgery
OFA Preliminary films can be obtained any time after your pup is 10 months of age. OFA Certification can only be done at 24 months of age or older.
Penn Hip is another method used to determine CHD. The dog is anesthetized and his hind legs (although elbows can be Penn Hip and OFA evaluated as well) are placed into vices that can be rotated in various directions. Radiographs are then obtained of the dog's hips in graduating degrees of rotation and the angles of laxity are measured. These numbers can determine the level of tightness or laxity of the hip joint. Reportedly, these numbers stay with the dog for his entire life and reportedly do not vary - whether the test done when the pup is 8 weeks or 8 years of age. Many breeders are now using this method of determining the hip health of their breeding stock. This test is extremely expensive compared to OFA radiographs, and is not currently available in all areas.
Vaccination Types and Protocols
The medical merit of routine annual boosters for common puppy hood diseases
is being questioned, as is the practice of vaccinating for diseases that pose
little, if any, risk to the animal being immunized. Because vaccination is a
medical and not economic procedure, I recommend that vaccines be administered
according to medical criteria including morbidity/mortality for the particular
disease, risk of the infection, and life-style and age of the animal. The most
important vaccinations are for puppy hood diseases, and then the 3-year boosters.
At this time, a study is being undertaken in 17 veterinary universities nationwide
to determine the actual requirement for booster immunizations. It is felt by
many researchers, including Jean Dodd, D.M.V., that the vaccination immunity
period may in fact be from 3-7 years. As you might expect, many vets are not
happy with this finding as the "routine" vaccination portion of most
of their practices is huge. It will be interesting to see how this is finalized.
The first puppy vaccines, as well as routine three-year boosters, should be administered in conjunction with a thorough wellness examination. The purposes of these in-depth examinations are to detect existing or potential health problems and to discuss any questions the owner might have regarding the well-being, care and management of the animal.
Recently, there has been a growing degree of evidence indicating protection from vaccination is longer lasting than previously believed. In addition, there is growing concern that vaccines may not be as harmless as once thought and that over-vaccination may actually be harmful in some instances. Of course, some vaccines (rabies) are required by law and must be administered on a regular basis. Some states require rabies shots once a year, more and more have changed to once every three years.
The foremost recommendation
is to discuss the vaccination program with your veterinarian. Don't be hesitant
to ask questions about the benefits and risks of annual vaccination with your
vet. In the past, the DHLP (distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parvovirus)
vaccine was typically given each year. These recommendations are changing. Specific
vaccine requirements for individual dogs, based on age, health and environment,
should be discussed with your veterinarian and the most appropriate vaccination
program for each particular dog should be followed. Some veterinarians are more
open to discussion than others. If your veterinarian is not willing to discuss
this important health issue with you, you might consider seeking a second opinion.
Vaccination Schedule for Your Puppy
|
Age |
Vaccine
|
|
6-9
weeks
|
DA2PCPV
|
|
9-12
weeks
|
DA2PL*CPV
|
|
12-16
weeks
|
DA2PL*CPV
|
|
16
weeks
|
Rabies
|
DA2P L* CPV
*Leptospirosis vaccine (canine)Vaccine: Killed or subunit against L. pomona
and L. grippotyphosa
Application: To all dogs at risk of disease, i.e., dogs allowed to roam free
in wet areas known to be inhabited by wildlife or livestock and dogs exposed
to rodent urine (possibly in a home).
Vaccine regimen: Puppies: Two doses, at 3-4 week intervals between 10-16 weeks of age, in conjunction with other vaccinations. Booster at one year and at three year intervals thereafter, until determined otherwise. Adults (unvaccinated or unknown vaccine status) - Two doses at 3 to 4 week intervals with other vaccines. Thereafter, same as routinely vaccinated dogs.
Until further information is available, I do not recommend the routine use of leptospirosis vaccines containing L. canicola and L. icterohaemorrhagiae.
Rabies
Puppies: should receive Rabies vaccine at 16 weeks of age, and a Rabies vaccine
booster 1 year later. Following this booster, the law requires re-vaccine every
3 years. Adult dogs with no known vaccination history should be vaccinated as
for puppies (i.e., one shot followed by a booster in 1 year).
Vaccine
Disease Type
DA2PL*CPV Canine Distemper MLV*
Adenovirus type-2 MLV
Parainfluenza MLV
*Leptospirosis Killed or Subunit
Canine Parvovirus MLV
CPV Canine Parvovirus MLV
Rabies Rabies Killed
*MLV- modified live vaccine
Measles
There is no convincing evidence that the use of Measles virus-containing vaccine
provides any better immunity than distemper virus vaccine alone in puppies greater
than 6 weeks of age. Therefore, I do not referentially recommend Measles virus-containing
vaccine. Measles vaccine may be beneficial in helping to stop outbreaks of distemper
in kennels when used as a single injection on puppies less than 6 weeks of age.
Note: Routine vaccination of household dogs for Lyme Disease, Giardia, Coronavirus,
and Bordetella is not recommended.
Lyme Disease
Lyme in dogs can occasionally cause arthritis, nephritis, and other mild to
severe disease. Vaccine reaction problems occur occasionally and may outweigh
health benefits.
Corona Virus
There is no scientific evidence that this disease is a significant problem in
household dogs. It is mainly a problem when large numbers of dogs are brought
together under heavy stress (i.e., in shows or kennel situations). I recommend
use of this vaccine only in situations in which dogs may be at risk of infection
and disease.
Bordetella Bronchiseptica
Also known as "kennel cough". Use only in kennel situations where
a problem exists. One dose (of MLV vaccine) gives protection in 2-7 days. Vaccination
with this vaccine may be a boarding requirement in some kennels. This vaccine
is administered intranasally, 0.4 ml instilled in one nostril. Be aware that
the bacteria that causes this disease is like a human cold - it is always changing
- and any protection that your dog may be given will be only temporary and will
probably NOT work anyway.
Giardia
Giardiasis is a common infection in dogs. However, many infected dogs are asymptomatic,
and the vaccine has low to moderate efficacy. For these reasons routine vaccination
for Giardia is not recommended.
Worms and Other Parasites
INTERNAL PARASITES *
NAME SIZE PASSED
BY SYMPTOMS TX RX COMMENTS
Round
worms Up to 6-8" long & spaghetti like Fecal contam-
ination or from
Mother to off-
Spring Vomiting, diarrhea,
May pass a "sick"
Worm, which may
coil up like a spring.
Can cause intestinal obstruction Oral med Treat affected
animal.
Clean up BM's
and discard Heartworm preventative helps prevent reinfestation
Hook
worms ½ - 1" long, seldom seen in stool Fecal contam-
ination or from mother to off-
spring Intestinal bleeding, anemia, vomiting, diarrhea Oral/inj meds Same as
round
worms Same as roundworms
Whip
worms Up to 4 - 5" long thread-like Fecal contam-
Ination Diarrhea, weight
loss, abdominal
pain Oral med Treat affected
animal
Clean up BM's Repeated fecals may be needed to verify diagnosis because worms
only lay their eggs periodically
Tape
worms Up to 10 - 12" long segment Require inter-
Mediate hosts
Such as fleas or rodents (rabbits) Pass tapeworm seg-
ments on stool or
around anus, look
like grains of rice; interferes with
digestion Oral/inj meds Treat affected
animal and elim-
inate intermed-
iate host Segments of worms can be identified so intermediate host is known
* Diagnosis of all internal parasites is made by identifying the worms, if seen. Usually healthy worms are not seen externally. Microscopic laboratory examination of stool samples is the best method of diagnosis
Internal parasites
are a common problem among dogs, However, because there are few outward signs,
this problem often goes undetected. Most breeders and veterinarians today think
that an ongoing parasite control program is better than treating a serious parasite
infection after it develops.
Tape Worms
Tapeworms are of special concern. Tapeworm segments resemble small pieces of
rice. They are one of the few parasites that have an intermediate host in its
life cycle. This means that part of the life cycle is spent in another host
before getting to your pet. The intermediate host for the dog tapeworms can
either be a flea or a rodent. Your pet has to eat the intermediate host to get
tapeworms - THE FLEA
Fleas
The flea is a hardy adversary with a lifespan of six to twelve months. During
that time, a pair of fleas could produce millions of offspring. Fleas have survived
millions of years in a variety of environments. Some species can leap 15 to
36 inches high. That's the equivalent to a man jumping over the 555-foot Washington
Monument. Adult fleas are comparatively easy targets while they are on your
pet. Fleas spend their time both on and off your pet. Therefore treatment should
be directed at your pet and it's environment. To complicate things, fleas lay
numerous small, tough eggs. These eggs are resistant to most flea control attempts.
A flea's saliva can cause a severe allergic reaction, resulting in itching,
scratching, chewing or rubbing its skin. Ask us about flea control that would
be right for your pet and its environment.
Ticks
Ticks are such small insects, but they can pose a very great danger to us and
our companion animals. They prey on the blood of dogs, horses, deer, birds,
rodents and people. There are hundreds of kinds of ticks, including the dog
tick and the deer tick. The diseases that ticks can transmit to companion animals
include Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, ehrlichiosis (a bacterial
infection), and babesiosis (a blood disorder). Ticks live in cracks and crevices
in the home or outside in vegetation, such as grassy meadows, woods, brush and
weeds. They cannot fly or jump, but they have a way of finding a host. Oftentimes,
they will wait in wooded or grassed areas and attach themselves to any living
creature that brushes them. Ticks can also detect the carbon dioxide given off
by warm blooded animals. They can crawl several feet to the carbon dioxide source.
Flea and Tick Control
Fleas and ticks are not only irritating to your pet and you but they are also
carriers of disease that can kill your pet and even affect your family. It is
very important to keep these pesky parasites under control. Dips, flea shampoos,
sprays and powders are effective, but in the past few years, the veterinary
drug industry has developed some very effective drugs that are much better.
Over the counter products are not as effective and are much more toxic. You
can start this protection as early as 8-10 weeks
**For flea control at Blackheath, I use a homeopathic method: I take 1/3 portion oil of Eucalyptus, 1/3 portion oil of Citronella, and 1/3 oil portion of Cedar or Cedarwood and combine it in a solution of ½ water and ½ alcohol. Then I take ordinary shoe laces and soak them in this solution. The laces are then spread out on wax paper to dry. I tie them around the dogs' necks after laces have dried. Extras are stored in a Ziploc baggie in the freezer. The laces can be recycled and the process can be repeated. The effectiveness of the laces is about 2-3 days (less if they become wet while being worn). All the oils I mention above can be obtained at most health food stores that feature aroma-therapy oils. They also make the dogs smell wonderful.
Heart Worms
Heartworms are the most serious life-threatening of all canine parasites. These
worms live in the heart of the dog, and have been found as long as 14".
Living in the heart they put stress on it, restricting blood flow to all organs,
causing organ failure.. Because they can "clump" in the heart they
can also cause heart failure.
Heartworms are transmitted from dog to dog via the common mosquito. ALL dogs are at risk. Your dog MUST be tested for this PRIOR to beginning preventive treatment as the common treatment for these worms can cause an already infected dog to release the parasites in their heart and can cause instant death. Prevention is the best policy. Have your dog tested in the early spring before mosquitos become a problem. There IS treatment for infected dogs, but it is very dangerous for the dog and does not always work. This treatment needs to be administered by a veterinarian. Puppy's under 6 months of age can be started on heartworm preventative without testing. A heartworm preventative sample and literature is provided at the time you take your puppy home.
Hook Worms
Hook worms attach themselves to the dog's intestinal lining with hook-like teeth
and feed on the dog's blood. Their eggs are released in the dog's intestines
and passed out of their body in their feces. Another dog can then pick them
up by licking their feet after they walk through the larvae in the ground spread
by feces. Humans have also been known to become infected from walking in contaminated
soil and not cleaning their feet properly afterwards. Once again, the popular
thought with breeders is prevention.
Round Worms
Almost all puppies are born with roundworms. In puppies, roundworms can transcend
the placental wall and can also be acquired through their mother's milk. Older
dogs can become infected by just walking through contaminated soil containing
the eggs. Infected dogs usually can be identified by their rough coats (not
shinny), bloated bellies, and suffer from diarrhea and/or vomiting, which can
occur on a daily basis or even intermittently. Prevention again!
Whip Worms
These parasites live in the large intestine dogs, and can cause severe diarrhea,
weight loss and dehydration. These worms, because they are so small, are difficult
to detect and eliminate. Prevention is the ONLY key here.
There are several commercial products on the market. A plus to prevention of worm parasites - all but tape worms can be treated with only one of the major preventative medications - Heartgard. Tapeworms are treated with Droncit, either in tablet or injectable form.
Keep your puppy healthy all his life. Keep him free of parasites.
Symptoms of Common Illness
Your puppy's NORMAL temperature is around 101°. The following are common
ailments of dogs that you should be aware of: If you have any doubt about your
pet's health, call your veterinarian.
" Diarrhea
- This common ailment can be caused by many factors including bacteria, viruses,
internal parasites, toxic substances, food or psychological upsets. Organ dysfunction,
especially the liver and pancreas, can also cause diarrhea. Call your veterinarian
if stools are bloody, there is a very large volume of watery stools, your pet
is debilitated, dehydrated or has other symptoms of disease or if the diarrhea
continues for more than 24 hours. After your puppy has recovered, return it
to its regular food by feeding small amounts frequently, about three to six
times daily. Do not give supplements, as they may be the original source of
the problem.
" Constipation - Like diarrhea, constipation can be caused by many factors,
including ingesting substances such as hair, bones or foreign material, insufficient
water intake and disease. Your veterinarian may need to take blood tests, radiographs
or other tests to find the cause of your pet's constipation. A diet higher in
fiber may also be helpful. You should encourage your pet to be more active and
exercise, and don['t let it eat table scraps, bones or other indigestible material.
Ensure that fresh water is available at all times.
" Vomiting - It is not uncommon for a pet to vomit occasionally, but frequent
or persistent vomiting is not normal. Call your veterinarian if vomiting occurs
more than five times in a few hours, large volumes are vomited, vomit contains
blood or vomiting is accompanied by diarrhea or abdominal pain.
How to take your Dog's Temperature
Normal temperature for an puppies and adult dogs ranges between 100° to
102.5 °, with the average about 101.3°.
The only effective way to take a dog's temperature is with a rectal thermometer. First, shake the thermometer until the mercury reads 96° or below. Lubricate the bulb end of the bulb with Vaseline. Raise the dog's tail and hold it tight, to keep him from sitting down. Gently insert the bulb into the anal canal with a gentle twisting motion. Insert the thermometer about 1 ½". You will need to hold the thermometer in place for at least 2 (better if 3) minutes. Remove it, wipe it clean, and read the temperature noted by the level of the mercury against the scale. Always clean the thermometer after use by wiping it clean with alcohol before storage, and before using it again. This will help prevent transferring any bacteria or parasites.
In the horrifying event that the dog sits and breaks the thermometer off inside his rectum, do not attempt to remove it. Instead, give the dog 3-4 teaspoons of mineral oil by mouth to help move the thermometer through the rectum, and contact your veterinarian.
Some things to remember in a healthy dog:
Temperature: 100°
to 102.5° (with 101.5° being average)
Pulse: 70-130 beats per minute at rest.
Respiration: 10-30 seconds per minute at rest.
First Aid for your Dog
The following section deals with first aid in emergency and non-emergency situations.
You should always try to distinguish between the two. Try to keep calm so you
can assess whether you need the vet right away, or whether your first aid treatment
is adequate for the time being and you can see the vet in the morning, or even
not at all. If you can, practice as many of the first aid procedures as possible
so you are familiar with them should you ever need to use them for real.
Emergency Procedures
As far as possible, start first aid treatment while on your way to the vet.
For example, if you are trying to control bleeding, start at once but meanwhile
get the dog into the car and get someone to drive you to the vet. Continue the
treatment while you are traveling there. If there is no possible way you can
get to the vet quickly and safely, get someone to phone for the vet whilst you
carry on with the first aid treatment.
Bleeding
If bleeding doesn't stop within 5 minutes, you must try to staunch the flow
using the following procedure:
With a clean cloth,
or even your hand, apply direct pressure to the wound. If blood seeps through,
apply more bandages or a cotton wool pad on top of the first bandage; don't
try to remove the old bandage.
If such pressure won't stop the bleeding, find the nearest pressure point and
compress the artery against its underlying bone. Use the flat part of your fingers,
not your thumb or finger tips.
As a last resort you can try a tourniquet, although this carries the greater
risk of stopping circulation to the affected part and causing gangrene. Use
it only to save life when nothing else is working and release intermittently.
Breathing Difficulties
Many things may cause a dog to have difficulty in breathing, perhaps obstruction
of the air passage to the lungs by a foreign body or the dog's own tongue if
it is unconscious, strangulation by it collar, electrocution, drowning, heart
attack or chest injuries. If the dog is breathing with difficulty, clear airway
and, if necessary, start artificial respiration immediately. If you cannot see
breathing movement place your ear on the dog's chest and listen for a heartbeat
or take its pulse. If the heart has stopped within the last minute or so but
you think the dog is not yet dead, apply heart massage and artificial respiration
together. Never attempt the "kiss of life" if you have reason to believe
that poison is involved.
Artificial Respiration
" Open dog's mouth, grasp tongue and pull it well forward clear of back
of throat. Wipe away any mucus or blood. Remove any obstruction.
" Remove any collar or restricting item.
" If the animal has fluid in its throat or is a victim of drowning hold
it upside down by its rear legs for 15-30 seconds.
" If dog is still not breathing, start artificial respiration. Close mouth,
place your mouth over the dog's nose and exhale to force air through its nose
to the lungs. Watch the dog's chest for the lungs to inflate. Remove your mouth,
and repeat the cycle about six times a minute. You may need to carry on for
30-60 minutes, until the dog is breathing by itself or is pronounced dead.
Heart Massage/Compression
If you cannot hear the dog's heartbeat, strike its chest sharply with your fist
once or twice in the region just below the dogs left shoulder. If heart is still
not going, apply heart massage. Place the dog on its right side on a firm surface.
Put the fingers of one hand on each side of the chest over heart area and compress
it firmly but not too hard. Then release the pressure. Repeat 70 times a minute.
Burns
Animals are afraid of fire so burns from a naked flame are not too common, although
a dog dozing by the fire can get singed or burnt. The dog can burn its feet
though, by walking on a hot surface, and scalds are also quite common. Puppies,
especially, might chew on an electric lead which will cause a special type of
burn and this will often be accompanied by electric shock.
Heat burns
" Do not apply butter, grease or any ointment.
" Soak cloth in cold water and hold to burned place.
" Send for the vet if the burn seems serious. A superficial burn is painful,
reddens the skin and singes the hair, but the latter will not pull out easily.
A serious burn is actually less painful because the nerves have been destroyed.
The skin may be white, black or brown, and the hair will either be gone completely
or will pull out easily.
" Keep the burn covered with a wet dressing covered with thick dry towels.
Make the dog stay lying down, restrained in warm blankets.
" Give fluid as for dehydration, unless the dog is vomiting.
" Treat for shock.
Chemical burns
" Wash burned area with lots of plain water, especially if round face.
" If acid, rinse with solution of 1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda to 1 litre
of water. If alkali, use plain water only.
" Apply soothing ointment; e.g. olive oil.
" You should, of course muzzle and restrain the dog before treatment.
Collapsing
" In this situation apply common sense first aid whilst getting to the
vet as quickly as possible.
" Check pulse, pupils, breathing and temperature. Apply artificial respiration
and/or heart massage as outlined on previous pages.
" Always handle your dog as if it may have a broken bone or other serious
internal injury.
" Treat for shock.
Convulsions/Fits
There are basically two kinds of convulsion - the single convulsion which lasts
for a minute or two and doesn't recur for at least 24 hours or repeated or continuous
convulsions which are serious emergencies and need veterinary attention immediately.
In the latter situation, you should gently restrain the dog so it can't injure
itself by placing a towel over it. Don't put your hand on the dog or in or near
its mouth as you may get bitten and will require treatment yourself. Once you've
restrained the dog, get to the vet immediately. Single convulsions also require
veterinary attention but are usually not so serious. Again restrain the animal
and get to the vet as soon as possible.
Injuries to the
Eyeball
If there is bleeding in the area of the eyes, apply direct pressure with dry
gauze pads and go to vet. Laceration of the eyeball itself or penetration by
a foreign object is very serious. Place a damp cloth over the place and get
to the vet at once. Don't try to wash the eye or remove a foreign body or you'll
undoubtedly do more harm than good. A simple bruise can usually be dealt with
by a cold compress.
Shock
"Shock" is a term used loosely and often very incorrectly. In both
human and animal terms, it is much more serious than the slight feeling of malaise
that might occur after a minor accident or fright which is often called 'shock'.
The signs of true shock in dogs are: weakness, collapse, coma, unconsciousness,
pale color of mouth, lips and eyelids, coolness of skin and legs, rapid but
weak pulse (may be over 140 per minute), rapid respiration (over 40 a minute),
staring eyes and dilated pupils. If any or all of these signs occur after an
accident or prolonged illness, treat for shock as below and call the vet immediately.
" Keep airways
open, giving artificial respiration or heart massage as necessary, bandage or
splint any fracture or extensive wound.
" Wrap the dog in a thick cloth or towel to conserve body heat. If the
dog is unconscious, keep its head as low as, or lower than, the rest of the
body. Gently massage legs and muscles to maintain circulation unless you suspect
that they may be fractured or broken. If the dog is conscious and restless,
keep it horizontal and well wrapped up.
" Get to the vet's surgery promptly. Time is vital, especially for the
intravenous introduction of fluid in severe cases.
If you absolutely can't get immediate veterinary help - either at all or for a few hours - give fluids orally. If the dog is conscious administer an amount (depending on dog's size) of tepid water mixed with glucose every 30 minutes for 4 or 5 doses. Don't give anything by mouth if the dog is unconscious, convulsing or vomiting. Take pulse and breathing rate every 30 minutes and record them. Note any blood in urine etc., and report these details to the vet.
Heat Stroke/Heat
Exhaustion
This often occurs if the dog is kept shut up in a house or car without shade,
ventilation or water. It can also happen as a result of the dog getting overexcited
or being under stress; i.e. at dog shows.
Signs are:
" Panting
" Slobbering
" Vomiting
" Diarrhea
" Raised temperature
" Ultimately, collapse and coma
Treatment
" Remove dog from hot spot into a cool or shady area.
" Soak the dog with cold water from a hose, or immerse in an ice bath and
gentle massage the legs and body until you can reach your vet or the animal's
temperature returns to normal.
" Gently towel dry the dog.
" If the dog is conscious, give SMALL amounts of cool water.
" Give artificial respiration if necessary.
When It's Time to Say Good-Bye
It's a sadness, to say the very least, to lose an old and cherished friend.
Losing a loved companion dog is no different. As dog owners, we have the responsibility
to do something for our dogs that we cannot do for each other - end suffering.
I have been asked many, many times over the years - "When is the right time?" The answer to that is just as difficult for me as it is for you. But something I have learned in dealing with my dogs and losing